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T-Bolt Clamps On Stock Charge Pipes

27K views 32 replies 13 participants last post by  jeffreyd03 
#1 · (Edited)
Got a chance to hop under the car today and measure some of the stock couplers and fit a few of my spare t-bolt clamps. In the entire system, you have 8 worm-gear clamps which were all loose on my car.

Hot side:
  • Turbo Outlet (1) - 2" (Verified)
  • Hard mid-pipe (2) - 2" and 2.25" (Verified; smaller goes on the turbo side)
  • Intercooler (1) - 2.75" (Verified)

Cold side
  • Intercooler (1) - 2.75" (Verified)
  • Intermediate Pipe (2) - 2.25" and 2.5" (smaller on the charge pipe side)
  • Throttle Body (1) - 2.5"


I only had spares in the above sizes which I noted as verified where I fit t-bolts. I will be ordering the other sizes and replacing next weekend. Once I verify they fit, I'll update the thread here. I will NOT be replacing the hose clamps on the throttle body or intermediate pipe. If you pull these off you'll notice they have an inner liner which keeps the clamp from digging into the silicone and also spreads the load of the clamp. These are nearly as good as t-bolts and are similar to the style clamps used on other OEM turbo applications like Volvo and Saab:

AWAB LLC

I don't know why Ford didn't use these in the rest of the system since they're far superior to the normal clamps fitted in the rest of the system. Also, the working space near the TB is TIGHT. Fitting a t-bolt in there would be quite a chore and not worth it when looking at the quality of the clamp already there.

Also, if you look at any hose clamp, the clamping diameter is stamped into the band. The same also applies to t-bolt clamps.

Text Circle Diagram Parallel


In short, here's a temporary shopping list that I'll update after I've replaced all of them. I didn't feel comfortable bottoming out my 2.25" clamps on the smaller hoses by the turbo so I left the worm gears there for now. I was able to fit 2.5" clamps on the intercooler, but that was the maximum limit of their clamping. 2.75" will work there and I will be replacing those.

(2) 2" clamps - Turbo outlet hose
T Bolt Clamp

(1) 2.25" clamp - Hard mid pipe to intercooler coupler
T Bolt

(2) 2.75" clamps - Intercooler
Band Clamp

This does not replace the final 3 couplers in the system which connect the cold side pipe to the adapter right before the TB and the clamp on the TB. If you're feeling adventurous, these should do it, but I have not verified fitment and won't be replacing them on my car:

(1) 2.25" - Charge pipe to adapter pipe
T Bolt

(2) 2.5" - Adapter and TB
Hose Clamp



 
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#3 ·
Good deal, please let me know if you find any variances from the sizes I have posted above. I had limited spares and was only able to 100% verify a few with new clamps. The rest are just taken from measurements.
 
#6 ·
Subscribed, thanks for doing the research!
 
#7 ·
Just ordered the remaining clamps. While I'm not replacing the two on the adapter pipe, I should have spares to verify fitment this weekend for those that would like.

From browsing the Silicone Intakes site more, it appears if someone sends them a package, they'll add it as an option on their cart for order. Once I can verify all clamps in the system, I'll send them an email so it's easier for people going forward.
 
#10 ·
Good info, thanks Eric. For many people, especially on stock tunes, just tightening the hose clamps may be enough. All the piping and IC outlets under the car are bead rolled and ribbed. My hose clamps were very loose and I'm sure others are as well. I have no doubt a simple tightening and verification for the first couple of oil changes would be all you need. I prefer t-bolts (the ones from Silicone Intakes use a nylock, achieving the same goal of the constant tension clamps) but it's really personal preference.

Many tractor/industrial supply places have some neat stuff for us automotive people. Good clamps like you mentioned and also a wealth of AN/NPT fittings, braided and kevlar hose, etc.



Many people have had couplers blow off charge pipes under the car. This is mainly due to QC issues where the clamps aren't tight. Worm gears are the cheapest kind of clamp you can use and offer uneven clamp load. When properly tightened at stock boost levels, they're probably fine. I prefer the piece of mind of t-bolts.
 
#9 ·
Good info and likely a wise upgrade, especially for those running calibration/tunes resulting in more boost than stock. I'd imagine cost was a key factor for using regular worm gear clamps but you'd think having to pay out on warranty work for potential boost leak issues would have mitigated the cost. I was somewhat surprised and impressed with GM on their 2.0L turbo Ecotec running as much heat shielding wrap on underhood wiring and vacuum pieces as well as constant tension T-bolt clamps on the pressurized plumbing of the intake tract. I'm sure Ford's engineering was deemed adequate manufacturing costs do play a big part.

For those trying to track down T-bolt or constant tension T-bolt clamps (which as their name implies uses a spring behind the nut to maintain a constant clamping force) my local industrial supply warehouse usually has good prices but you can also order them online from places like McMaster-Carr, Grainger (they usually require bulk quantity purchases and a business account), or Fastenal (who like Grainger also have storefronts in many areas). I've also had good luck in the past finding specialty clamps at local hose fitting and supply/manufacturers.
 
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#17 ·
Thankfully with t-bolt clamps you have much more even torquing which will make it harder to cause damage to the plastic end tanks. You'll have to be a lot more careful with a standard hose clamp.
 
#19 ·
Started the install. I will have sizes used later, but what I ordered did not all fit. Waiting for second batch to come in. I did use a 2.25" and two 2.75" clamps. I got the inter cooler clamps on, so I can avoid taking the front air dam off again. The only one I am not sure about is the one on the turbo. It looks too tight of an area for me to get to.

Wes
 
#20 · (Edited)
I got mine on yesterday and used 2" for both sides of the coupler coming off the turbo.


To get the turbo clamp off, get up there with a 1/4" ratchet and a 9/32" (7mm) socket with extension towards the wheel. Take the coupler off on the hard pipe first and then you can use the leverage to twist and pull it off the turbo outlet. Put the t-bolts on as loose as possible and then put the coupler back in, turbo inlet first. I left the t-bolt facing down on the driver's side and it was easy to get at with a deep socket and long extension. A ratcheting wrench also works.
 
#24 ·
I ordered the COBB stage 2 kit - from the pictures it looks like it comes with t-bolt clamps for the charge pipes. It's currently on backorder but I should have it before June. Checked the stock clamps and none were loose, so I'm just going to hold out until the new intercooler is here.
 
#25 ·
Coupler popped off from the turbo to hard pipe this weekend while cruising on the highway; annoyed. Got under and re-tightened all of them. None of the other hoses had moved, these rubber couplers just suck.
 
#26 · (Edited)
I thought I remember one of the ST Nation members setting up with a t-bolt supplier so we could place a single "package" order that had all the right size t-bolts. I can't seem to find that post now. So for those of you that have already changed out the worm gears for t-bolts, how did you order, and where did you order from?

UPDATE: I think it was this post by XRJoe that I was thinking of, and the supplier was Silicone Intakes...

T-Bolt Clamps On Stock Charge Pipes (post #7)

XRJoe, did you set this up? If so, how do we order the "package"?

Additionally, in your last post you mentioned a coupler that popped off. Was that being held with a t-bolt?
 
#27 · (Edited)
I spoke to Dana Brown over at Silicone Intakes, but it looks like they still haven't provided a link yet to order. I'll follow-up with them and see what else needs to be done on my end.


On the coupler that popped off, yes it was held on with a t-bolt. It was on the hard pipe side of the coupler that comes off the turbo. The coupler almost looks too small for that spot since even when relaxed, mine won't sit bottomed out on the pipe unless you hold tension on it. I had to hold the coupler on and then crank down on the clamp. None of the other couplers had moved, but I verified torque on the rest of the couplers to make sure.
 
#28 ·
Thanks for that info Joe. I will look for your followup once you hear back from Dana. Regarding the loose coupler, is it bad enough to consider a reducer?
 
#30 ·
I have 7000 on my st and noticed a odd turbo sound the other. when reving it my car sounds fine, no error light and still shows boost on the gauge when driving however when I get it up towards the center line on the boost gauge I hear a loud sound from the passenger side engine bay. sounds like air being blown through a hose but just out into the atmosphere not in the engine. but like I said its only when I try to pull boost closer toward the center mark on the gauge.

since initially noticed it not seems to leak sooner but still not warning lights.
 
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